Sixteen years after the fashion website Net-a-Porter was launched, ecommerce is still immensely attractive to entrepreneurs. But today’s new sites are evolving. The latest digital incarnations sit apart from the major fashion houses and lifestyle behemoths to offer a more nuanced experience. 时尚网店Net-a-Porter问世16年之后，企业家们对电子商务的热度依旧不减。但如今，新的网店层出不穷。不同于各时尚巨擎及知名品牌，这些新兴网店提供的是更为细致入微的体验式服务。
These three women offer something beyond click-to-buy. The key word in luxury today is narrative, and each of the following sites are using editorial, social media and shared experiences to engage consumers, taking know-how from previous careers — whether buying or blogging — to give their new projects edge and a sense of the personal. 下面三位创店女强人提供的绝非单单是点击购买的网店模式。奢侈品界如今的关键词是娓娓说故事，以下各大网店都通过点评、社交媒体以及彼此分享购物体验来吸引消费者，从以往经历（不管是购物还是博客）中取经，从而让自己的新网店既与时俱进、又个性十足。
Nasiba Adilova: thetot.com 时尚博主艾迪洛娃(Nasiba Adilova)创建thetot.com网店
If there’s a product on Nasiba Adilova’s parenting website The Tot that sums up its appeal in one neat package, it’s the limited-edition diaper bag by British designer Mary Katrantzou. Just launched, the leather tote comes in two designs, one featuring a postage-stamp print, the other two white horses on a powdery blue background ($1,700). Crucially, you’d never know when it’s zipped up that inside there’s a waterproof lining, multiple compartments, a removable accessories pouch and changing mat on the side. Check out Russian-born, Texas-based Adilova’s Instagram account (90,000-plus followers) for a photo of her carrying it with her two-year-old son, or demonstrating its usefulness on a video, and you’ll crack the ethos of The Tot; practical, chic and social-media savvy.
The Tot, which launched in May 2016, combines useful editorial about pregnancy and motherhood with an e-shop offering all things stylishly mother and baby. The Tot is as much a destination for new mothers looking for advice, and to share their own experiences as it is a shop, but don’t expect Mumsnet. “First and foremost, we’re catering to mums like us,” says Adilova, “so these are all of our friends who are also fashion mums or they’re working in the industry but don’t have the luxury of time for browsing.” Formerly a business development director on Miroslava Duma’s Buro 24/7 lifestyle and fashion site, Adilova created The Tot with Duma because her friends were asking her for a “baby list” of recommendations, and the selection represents all the tried-and-tested products she swears by. There’s cool jersey maternity wear by Hatch, organic skincare by brands such as Kahina Giving Beauty, and tasteful toys that would complement rather than clutter even the most Scandi of interiors. “We make the selection very easy and tightly curated,” says Adilova, “everything has to pass what we call the tot test. We look at how eco-friendly, how safety and health conscious it is, as well as how innovative. We always choose a small company over a big one because we want to help support entrepreneurs that are trying to do good.” 如果用艾迪洛娃的育儿网站The Tot上的一款产品干净利落地概括其魅力，要数英国知名设计师玛丽?卡特兰楚(Mary Katrantzou)设计的限量版尿布包(Diaper Bag)了。该真皮手提包刚推出时，只有两种款式：一为邮票图纹款，另一款是粉蓝底色上印有两匹白马（售价1700美元）。最关键的是：拉上拉链后，消费者根本不知道里面还有防水里衬、多个内袋、可缷式配饰小袋以及侧装的尿垫片。艾迪洛娃出生于俄罗斯、定居在德克萨斯州，浏览她的Instagram帐户（粉丝数超过了9万），可以看到她牵着两岁儿子的照片或是观看该包用途的演示视频，诸位立马就会感受到The Tot网的风格：实用、新奇以及深谙社交媒体之道。
Probably the biggest difference between Adilova’s site and others with a similar focus, is the fashion sensibility she has brought to it. It’s not just in the collaborations between designers and companies producing products for children (there are exclusive Oscar de la Renta childrenswear pieces coming out for Christmas) that signify style, it’s in the understated way a wooden toy camera is photographed for a features, or in the “Being Mama” profiles they publish with other inspirational (and high-profile) mothers; women such as editor, street-style star and retailer Taylor Tomasi Hill, artist Quentin Jones and stylist Rachel Zoe.
Adilova lives, breathes and dreams digital, and she’s noticed the migration of women in the fashion industry towards its bright lights. The Tot于今年五月正式上线，把妊娠与育儿方面的有益点评与妈妈及婴儿时尚潮品一应俱全的网店合于一身。The Tot既是网店，也是初为人母获取真知灼见与分享育儿经验的地方，但别指望其成为Mumsnet这类专业育婴网站。“首先，The Tot满足的是我们这类妈妈的需求。”艾迪洛娃说，“因此，这些妈妈都是我们的好友，她们又是时尚达人、或在时尚界就职，但没有时间光顾网店。”艾迪洛娃原先是米洛斯拉瓦?杜玛(Miroslava Duma)旗下生活时尚网站Buro 24/7的业务主管，与杜玛合创了The Tot，原因是好友们请她推荐婴儿用品，这些精选的上架物都是她极其信赖的“久经考验”的产品。The Tot推荐了Hatch时尚针织孕装、Kahina Giving Beauty有机护肤品以及益智玩具。“我们挑选的玩具既容易上手、又是精心设计的。”艾迪洛娃说，“所有东西都得经过所谓的tot网测。我们除了检测其创意性外，还会检测其环保、安全以及是否有益于健康。我们总是挑选小微而非大企业，原因是对这些想做点实事的小企业家，我们想助一臂之力。”
“There are so many new ideas and opportunities that I feel like women from fashion are trying to explore,” she says. “When I went to New York a few months ago to do our press meetings for The Tot, most of the fashion editors I talked to were saying how much they wanted to leave and work in digital. We go to quite a few tech conferences and people from fashion are going and showing an interest.” 艾迪洛娃的网站与其它同类网站最大的差别是她的时尚敏感度。The Tot的时尚感，并不仅限于设计师与生产童婴产品公司之间的合作（奥斯卡?德拉伦塔(Oscar De La Renta)专为今年圣诞节设计的限量版童婴产品即将面世），而在于低调展示木制玩具相机的特写照或是“Being Mama”等栏目，此外，还有不少有感召力、高知名度的妈妈们亮相，比如：集时尚编辑、街装达人以及零售商于一身的泰勒?希尔(Taylor Tomasi Hill)、艺术大师昆汀?琼斯(Quentin Jones)以及设计师雷切尔?佐伊(Rachel Zoe)等等。
Anna Garner: thegarnered.com 艾迪洛娃与网络可谓形影不离，她注意到时尚界女性都蜂拥至互联网发展。
While the pace of online fashion and retail seems to move ever faster, Anna Garner is slowing things down. Her new project, The Garnered, which launched this week, sells beautiful objects and accessories, from vases to ties to necklaces, all produced by skilled artisans and designers. Some of their creations are available straight away, others are made to order. “如今的社会新观念与新机遇比比皆是，我觉得时尚界女性正努力从中淘金。”她说，“我几个月前到纽约举行创立The Tot网站的新闻发布会，接触的多数时尚编辑都表示非常希望离开目前的工作环境，转投网络一展身手。我参加过多场高科技会议，时尚界人士蜂拥而至，都对此表露出深厚兴趣。”
The ecommerce site is the antithesis of fashion’s preoccupation with chasing the new, although Garner, 43, would know all about that from her previous careers as head of fashion at Selfridges, and as the former right-hand woman of Joseph Ettedgui, founder of Joseph. Garner isn’t a social-media star, but within the fashion industry she’s an experienced, respected name. 安娜?加纳(Anna Garner)创办thegarnered.com网
The British-born mother of three boys says that the starting point for The Garnered came when “Ed Burstell, Liberty’s managing director, asked me to produce a collection, which included hats. I tracked down a man called Tom Llewellyn who made hats for Vivienne Westwood and Phillip Treacy, and he was pretty much a one-man band with no one to hand over his skills to. That made me think I wanted to do something to support craftsmanship.”
The Garnered doesn’t carry inventory, instead the site acts as a shop window for craft studios and ateliers around the world — each sale is handled by one of 25 represented artists (there will be 40 by Christmas). “It’s not about me trying to be a tastemaker,” says Garner, “it’s about me gathering talents and giving them the right platform to tap into globalisation.” Josh Vogel, who is based in the Hudson Valley, makes sculptural kitchen wares using a lathe for his Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Company; his large Splatter spice bowl (￡140) comes in cream with muted splotches. Paris-based Fran?ois-Régis Laporte studied pattern-cutting at the école de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, before launching tie-makers Maison F five years ago. His ties, made from a thick high-quality silk from Lyon, include a bow shaped like a butterfly (￡185). 尽管时尚网店的发展日新月异，但安娜?加纳却是慢工出细活。在她不久前新成立的网店The Garnered上，销售从花瓶、领带到项链的各种漂亮时尚产品与配饰，它们都由技艺精湛的工匠与设计师精心打造而成。有些东西可以即刻购买，有些则需预订。
The entry price point for the site is ￡30 for a hand-bound journal from London-based stationers Mark+Fold. At the higher end, handcrafted leather bags by Hugo Matha of France start at about ￡2,000. Each designer stocked on the site has a little profile and photos, so users can feel “ a personal connection” with the person they are buying from. The Garnered网店反时尚“追新”之道而行之，尽量43岁的加纳自己从先前工作中可谓心知肚明，她曾是伦敦塞尔福里奇百货店(Selfridges)时尚部主管，还曾是时尚品牌Joseph创始人约瑟夫?埃泰德吉(Joseph Ettedgui)的左膀右臂。加纳并非社交媒体明星人物，但她在时尚圈阅历丰富、受人尊崇。
The project is self funded. “Having a finite amount of money really focuses the mind,” says Garner who pinpoints photography and imagery as her “number-one drive” to get right. The Garnered dramatically outshines many similar art and design shops that often feel cluttered and a little homespun. She’s also prioritised slick customer experience; she and her team of eight (including freelance photographers and journalists) have made sure all duties and shipping are included in the price and that returns are smooth. Ultimately, though, she says, “It’s about cutting through the noise. In any scenario it always comes down to product. Product is still king.” You can take the girl out of buying?.?.?.?
Chiara Ferragni: theblondesalad.com 出生于英国的加纳是三个孩子的母亲。她说创办The Garnered网店的起因是：“伦敦Liberty百货店总经理埃德?伯斯戴尔(Ed Burstell)请她设计一个包括帽子在内的时尚系列。我费尽周折找到一位名叫汤姆?卢埃林(Tom Llewellyn)的工匠，他为薇薇恩?韦斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)以及菲利普?崔西(Philip Treacy)制作帽子，他单打独干，无人承继他的手艺。我于是萌生了该为手工技艺传承贡献一份力量的想法。”
Chiara Ferragni has been the subject of a Harvard Business School case study, appeared on the Forbes magazine 30 under 30 power list, and has 6.9m Instagram followers (more than twice as many as Hillary Clinton). Who is she? Try digital influencer and editor-in-chief of what she calls her “inspirational platform” The Blonde Salad. The Garnered网店并没有库存，相反，它只是充当全球手工艺制作室的展示橱窗——每桩交易由25位工艺师代表自己完成（到今年圣诞节，网店帐下将有40位工艺师）。“这并不是说我不想当时尚引领者，”加纳说，“我这是集聚手工艺英才，为他们提供一个利用全球化发展浪潮的理想平台。”定居纽约州哈德逊河谷(Hudson Valley)的乔希?沃格尔(Josh Vogel)用机床为纽约手工木器工作室 Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Company制作雕花式厨房用品，他打造的Splatter调料碗（售价140英镑）点缀着柔和的斑点。巴黎设计师拉波特(Fran?ois-Régis Laporte)在巴黎时装工会学校(école de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture)学的是裁剪专业，五年前创立了领带品牌Maison F。他的领带用产自里昂的优质厚丝绸制作而成，其中就包括了蝴蝶形领结（售价185英镑）。
Italian-born, the 29-year-old LA-based former law student Ferragni started out as a fashion blogger (“I’m super proud of that”), putting her first post up in 2009. She launched a shoe line in 2013, turned her blog into a lifestyle magazine in 2015, and launched e-commerce this September.
The Blonde Salad e-shop features products that are all limited edition or brand collaborations with a Ferragni twist; Levi’s have created special stretch 501s with a bandana tied to the belt loop, while jewellery designer Delfina Delettrez has turned her signature eyes and lips motif earring (￠750) into a ring in a unique colourway. “She’s one of my favourite designers,” says Ferragni. Italian shoe designer Giuseppe Zanotti has created sky-high denim sandals (￠595). The merchandise is playful, fun and poppy — with a dash of rock’n’roll. There are pom-pom sandals, palm-print espadrilles, and bright scarf-silk kimono jackets, along with Grease-style painted leather jackets. She says: “My goal is to always look effortlessly cool. For me it’s about following my instinct not overthinking it. Fashion is amazing if you can have fun with it, but if you take it too seriously forget it, it’s not working.” 在The Garnered网店上，最低价的要数伦敦办公用品品牌Mark+Fold纯手工制作的分类账簿本（30英镑）；而在高端系列，手工打造的法国Hugo Matha皮手包起售价近2000英镑。在网店挂号的每位设计师都有自己的简介与形象照，因此消费者感觉与这些设计师（制作师）个人有了“亲密联系”。
Ferragni’s commercial value has been built on her numerous street-style looks and a brand of model-like, glossy haired beauty. She’s unapologetic about the role of the fashion blogger in the industry today. “There is room for everybody. It’s up to the audience who they want to follow and who’s more powerful now.” The Garnered网店自负盈亏。“有确定收入来源能让人心无旁骛做事。”加纳说，她把照片和图片定位成网店正常运转的“第一功臣”。The Garnered让许多同类艺术及设计网店相形见绌，对方往往给人以杂乱与太过寻常的感觉。她还把客户的温馨体验放在最重要的地位上；她与自己的8人团队（包括自由摄影师与记者在内）确保所有关税及运费都计入定价中，并且收益稳健。她说：“归根到底，直切主题是关键。在任何情况下，最终都是产品说了算。现如今仍是产品为王。”否则，网店会让时尚女性望而却步……
Ferragni’s sidestepping of traditional media has paid dividends. Her TBS brand that also encompasses “talent” — her, her sister and the “TBS crew”, combined with her shoe line, brought in $10m in revenue last year. And she expects to make $500,000 in sales from the new e-commerce line. “This is a long-term project so we don’t expect to earn as much with e-commerce as we do with other partnerships” (such as advertising campaigns, paid endorsements and appearance fees). 嘉拉?法拉格尼(Chiara Ferragni)创办theblondesalad.com网店
She’s come a long way since the days of being invited to fashion shows where “people had no idea who you were and were just really, really rude.” Now she says, “I have a team of 25 people, everybody is hired, most of them are under 30, and it’s really hard for people my age to find a job in Italy. The moment you stop caring about other people’s opinions is when you are really free, strong and powerful.”
Photographs: Sarah Weal 嘉拉?法拉格尼一直是哈佛商学院(Harvard Business School)的案例教学对象，又是福布斯“30位30岁以下名人榜”(Forbes magazine 30 Under 30 power list)人物，拥有690万Instagram粉丝（是希拉里?克林顿(Hillary Clinton)Instagram粉丝数的二倍多）。她到底是何方神圣？你可以试着了解一下这位网络大伽以及“灵感启迪平台”The Blonde Salad的主编。
曾是法律科班的嘉拉?法拉格尼今年29岁，出生于意大利，如今则定居于洛杉矶，她最初是一名时尚博主（“我对此深为自豪”），2009年发表了自己的第一篇博文；她2013年推出了自己设计的首个鞋系列，2015年把自己的博客变成了生活时尚杂志，今年九月又推出了自己的网店。
The Blonde Salad网店专推具有法拉格尼自身特色的限量版或是合推品牌：延展版501低腰小直筒（排扣）李维斯牛仔装(Levi’s)在腰带环处系了花色丝质手巾(bandana)，而首饰设计师德尔菲娜?德莱特雷(Delfina Delettrez)把自己带眼睛与嘴唇图案的标志性耳环（售价750欧元）改成了独特配色的戒指。“德尔菲娜?德莱特雷是本人最喜欢的设计师。”法拉格尼说。意大利鞋履设计师朱塞佩?萨诺第(Giuseppe Zanotti)则打造了超高跟牛仔凉鞋（售价595欧元）。The Blonde Salad网店推出的商品趣味与时尚感并举——有一点摇滚味道。网店还推出毛毛凉鞋、掌纹帆布鞋以及搭配艳丽围巾的和服款真丝外套，此外还有影片《Grease》中那种用画面点缀的夹克。她说：“我追求的目标就是轻松显现时尚感。在我看来，最重要的是率性而为而不是刻意为之。趣味风格的时装美不胜收，但太过郑重其事就没必要了，就别费那功夫了。”
法拉格尼的巨大商业价值建立在她众多养眼街装形象以及其集模特身材与光泽亮丽秀发的美女形象。她认为时尚博主在当今时尚界的角色不容置疑。“每个人都有自己的发展天地，时尚粉丝会自主决定自己的追随目标以及谁是真正的时尚大伽。”
法拉格尼有意规避了传统媒体，并取得了丰厚回报。她的TBS网店（The Blonde Salad，包括了她本人、她妹妹以及“TBS模特团队”等“高颜值美女”）与她的鞋履系列去年入账1000万美元。她预计新推的网店产品能实现50万美元销售额。“这是个长远项目，因此我们不期望网店收入暂时会超过其它合作项目收益”（如广告费、有偿代言以及出场费）。
从无名小卒到时尚大伽，她这一路艰辛自有体会：最初受邀出席时装秀时，“时尚界大腕不认识她这位无名之辈，轻蔑怠慢之意溢于言表”。如今她说：“我麾下有25名模特，每个人都是长发飘飘，而且多数不到30岁；在意大利，我这个年龄的年轻人很难就业。当一个人无需在意别人的想法时，就意味着自己真正自主、自立以及自强了。”
照片由Sarah Weal提供。
译者/常和
